Commandaria, Xynisteri & Me: Tasting the Soul of Cypriot Wine

A Sweet Start

My first sip of Commandaria was like tasting liquid history. Sun-dried Xynisteri and Mavro grapes, aged in oak barrels, transformed into a wine so rich and concentrated it reminded me of honeyed figs and spiced dates. It wasn’t just sweet — it was soulful.
Commandaria, often called the world’s oldest named wine, has been made on Cyprus for over 5,000 years. In fact, legend says it was the favorite of Richard the Lionheart during the Crusades. Standing in a vineyard near Limassol, I could almost hear the echoes of those days in the wind.

Discovering Xynisteri

But Cyprus isn’t just about dessert wines. I was surprised — and delighted — by Xynisteri, a native white grape that produces crisp, aromatic wines with bright acidity and herbal notes. At Vasilikon Winery, I sipped a chilled glass as the sun set over the Troodos Mountains. Light-bodied yet expressive, it was the perfect match for grilled octopus drizzled with lemon.

Reds with Character

Cypriot reds are gaining international attention, especially Maratheftiko — often dubbed “The Queen of Cyprus.” Bold, dark, and full of ripe plum and black cherry flavors, this grape can stand proudly alongside any Bordeaux or Rhône blend.
At Ktima Tsiakkas, I tried a Maratheftiko that had spent 18 months in French oak. Velvety tannins, layers of spice, and a long finish — it was everything I love in a red wine.

Feasting Like a Local